Epoxy resin is currently very popular – but not difficult to handle with the right instructions. Here’s how to make a designer table made of epoxy resin and tree discs. The contrast of shimmering epoxy resin and rustic wood makes the designer table a very special eye-catcher. Here is how to make an epoxy resin wood table.
Whether it’s furniture, floor coverings or jewelry – epoxy resin can no longer be thought of as not being DIY. Casting epoxy resin is not difficult, but there are a few things to keep in mind. Find out what’s important when working with epoxy resin and how to build a stylish designer table in five steps from epoxy resin and oak windows!
Make an epoxy resin wood table: Casting epoxy resin
Also important is the choice of the right casting resin. In the hobby area one usually uses epoxy resin, but here too there are many different varieties, depending on whether the casting should be thick or thin when you make an epoxy resin wood table.
To process wood and synthetic resin in an object, epoxy resin is well suited: unlike polyester resin, it sticks well to wood or metal. However, such a compound can be prevented by the resin and grease in the wood. This not only weakens the bond to the resin, but also affects its curing and stability.
If you also work with a particularly greasy wood species such as pine, larch or acacia, you must additionally clean the surface well with acetone. For closed surfaces, a simple wipe is sufficient. Holes and cracks, on the other hand, must be thoroughly washed and dried.
When epoxy resin is cured, a chemical reaction occurs with evolution of heat. The thicker the cast, the faster the resin reacts and gets hotter. This can lead to stress cracks and boiling bubbles. For thick casting objects, therefore, resins are used which react slowly and thus develop less heat, but also harden more slowly than resins for thin layers.
The SKresin 72 used here is suitable for layers up to 8 cm, takes 72 hours to harden, and develops a maximum of 60 ° C inside. It can also be used for final sealing.
You should pay attention to this when working with epoxy resin:
Mixing ratio: Always mix resin and hardener exactly in the specified ratio.
Protective clothing: In the liquid state epoxy resin should not reach the skin. Gloves and goggles are standard equipment.
Airing: Even if the smell of liquid epoxy resin is not conspicuous, you should always air well when pouring and vacuum clean the epoxy dust or wear respiratory protection when sanding.
Temperature: Pay attention to the correct room temperature. It should not fall below 19 ° C.
Important: Be careful with liquid epoxy resin, because it quickly triggers allergies. Always wear safety goggles and nitrile gloves. If the resin gets on the skin, wipe it off with a cloth and wash it with mild soap and water – if necessary also with acetone. Then grease the skin with a cream. Cured epoxy is not dangerous.
Weigh resin and hardener in two containers according to manufacturer’s instructions, or measure by volume. Pour the hardener into the resin and thoroughly mix the two components together. Then let it rest to allow air bubbles to rise.
Cast resin is dyed with color concentrates. The liquid concentrates are mixed depending on the color intensity in the ratio of 2 to 10% of the total amount in the finished casting resin. In addition to liquid concentrates you can also use effect pigments. These should be thinned with appropriate thinners, as dry pigments do not always mix well with resin.
Pour epoxy resin
Slowly pour the liquid into the sealed mold. Pay attention to the maximum layer thickness (see manufacturer’s instructions). Thick layers harden and heat faster – it can form stress cracks and boiling bubbles. This is avoided by building thick molds of several layers. Before applying the next coat, the underlying one must already have hardened and completely cooled down.
Material for the tabletop:
Rustic piece of wood
Casting resin and hardener
Color for tinting the casting resin
Hairpinlegs + matching screws
Material for the mold:
Chipboard, 22 mm thick, smooth & melamine coated
Screws for the mold
Silicone for sealing
Release agent (teflon spray)
Sand paper (grain size: 80, 120, 140, 180, 240)
possibly acetone for cleaning
Cordless screwdriver, pencil, drill for pre-drilling, wire brush, circular saw with guide rail, hand grinder (eccentric grinder), gloves, Heißluftfön, wedges made of hardwood, small paint roller for sealing, 4 mixing buckets, optional: router, stirrer for the drill, chisel, Cloth rag, Styrofoam plate (EPS), 3 cm thick, spirit level, angle, folding rule, clamps
Ste by step
1. Cut the wooden disc
Use a dry tree disc that has been stored for at least two to three years and a wood with little resin. Any cracks can be removed when cutting. Tip: Underlay a 3 cm thick polystyrene (EPS) sheet.
2. Create a mold
The synthetic resin is placed in a prefabricated mold. The cast iron frame is made of 22 mm thick, smooth-coated chipboard.
Tip: When sealing the mold, proceed very precisely, because the thin cast resin “finds” any leaks.
Screw together frame boards
The frame boards butt together. The panels should not be warped, as otherwise leaks easily occur.
3. Mix epoxy resin
How much casting resin you need depends on the volume of the tabletop and the dimensions of your tree-pulley.
Tip: You’d better plan for extra, because the wood “absorbs” the synthetic resin.
Mix resin and hardener. Mix the required amount of resin and hardener exactly in the ratio specified by the manufacturer.
4. Pour the table top
Make sure that the room temperature does not drop below 20 ° C (even when curing). Slowly pour out the resin and avoid splashes and air bubbles. Now pour the casting resin from four different sides into the mold at the same time. Let us help you with that.
5. Finish the tabletop
At the earliest after 72 hours, better after the final curing of a total of seven days, you can remove the tabletop from the mold and continue working. Remove the frame. With a chisel and hardwood wedge you separate the bottom plate from the table top.
Gerhardt Richter is a writer and a trainer at trade technical colleges, specializing in carpentry, plumbing and construction.