Epoxy resin is currently very popular – but not difficult to handle with the right instructions. Here’s how to make a designer table made of epoxy resin and tree discs. The contrast of shimmering epoxy resin and rustic wood makes the designer table a very special eye-catcher. Here is how to make an epoxy resin wood table.
Whether it’s furniture, floor coverings or jewelry — epoxy resin can no longer be thought of as not being DIY. Casting epoxy resin is not difficult, but there are a few things to keep in mind. Find out what’s important when working with epoxy resin and how to build a stylish designer table in five steps from epoxy resin and oak windows!
Make an epoxy resin wood table: Casting epoxy resin
Also important is the choice of the right casting resin. In the hobby area one usually uses epoxy resin, but here too there are many different varieties, depending on whether the casting should be thick or thin when you make an epoxy resin wood table.
To process wood and synthetic resin in an object, epoxy resin is well suited: unlike polyester resin, it sticks well to wood or metal. However, such a compound can be prevented by the resin and grease in the wood. This not only weakens the bond to the resin, but also affects its curing and stability.
If you also work with a particularly greasy wood species such as pine, larch or acacia, you must additionally clean the surface well with acetone. For closed surfaces, a simple wipe is sufficient. Holes and cracks, on the other hand, must be thoroughly washed and dried.
When epoxy resin is cured, a chemical reaction occurs with evolution of heat. The thicker the cast, the faster the resin reacts and gets hotter. This can lead to stress cracks and boiling bubbles. For thick casting objects, therefore, resins are used which react slowly and thus develop less heat, but also harden more slowly than resins for thin layers.
The SKresin 72 used here is suitable for layers up to 8 cm, takes 72 hours to harden, and develops a maximum of 60 ° C inside. It can also be used for final sealing.
You should pay attention to this when working with epoxy resin:
Mixing ratio: Always mix resin and hardener exactly in the specified ratio.
Protective clothing: In the liquid state epoxy resin should not reach the skin. Gloves and goggles are standard equipment.
Airing: Even if the smell of liquid epoxy resin is not conspicuous, you should always air well when pouring and vacuum clean the epoxy dust or wear respiratory protection when sanding.
Temperature: Pay attention to the correct room temperature. It should not fall below 19 ° C.
Important: Be careful with liquid epoxy resin, because it quickly triggers allergies. Always wear safety goggles and nitrile gloves. If the resin gets on the skin, wipe it off with a cloth and wash it with mild soap and water – if necessary also with acetone. Then grease the skin with a cream. Cured epoxy is not dangerous.
Weigh resin and hardener in two containers according to manufacturer’s instructions, or measure by volume. Pour the hardener into the resin and thoroughly mix the two components together. Then let it rest to allow air bubbles to rise.
Cast resin is dyed with color concentrates. The liquid concentrates are mixed depending on the color intensity in the ratio of 2 to 10% of the total amount in the finished casting resin. In addition to liquid concentrates you can also use effect pigments. These should be thinned with appropriate thinners, as dry pigments do not always mix well with resin.
Pour epoxy resin
Slowly pour the liquid into the sealed mold. Pay attention to the maximum layer thickness (see manufacturer’s instructions). Thick layers harden and heat faster – it can form stress cracks and boiling bubbles. This is avoided by building thick molds of several layers. Before applying the next coat, the underlying one must already have hardened and completely cooled down.
Material for the tabletop:
Rustic piece of wood
Casting resin and hardener
Color for tinting the casting resin
Hairpinlegs + matching screws
Material for the mold:
Chipboard, 22 mm thick, smooth & melamine coated
Screws for the mold
Silicone for sealing
Release agent (teflon spray)
Sand paper (grain size: 80, 120, 140, 180, 240)
possibly acetone for cleaning
Cordless screwdriver, pencil, drill for pre-drilling, wire brush, circular saw with guide rail, hand grinder (eccentric grinder), gloves, Heißluftfön, wedges made of hardwood, small paint roller for sealing, 4 mixing buckets, optional: router, stirrer for the drill, chisel, Cloth rag, Styrofoam plate (EPS), 3 cm thick, spirit level, angle, folding rule, clamps
Step by step to make an epoxy resin wood table
Cut the wood disc
Use a dry tree slice that has been stored for at least two to three years and a wood with little resin. You can remove any cracks when cropping. Tip: Underlay a 3 cm thick styrofoam plate (EPS).Epoxy resin table: cut wood disc
Step 1/5: Slice of oak wood
This tree disc serves as a basis. It is important that the wood is well dried.
Step 2/5: Saw through the tree disc
Saw the well-dried tree slice in half.
Step 3/5: Right angle
Draw the section line at right angles on the halves. Make sure that the thighs become the same length.
Step 4/5: Remove bark and sand
Remove the bark with a tint, then thoroughly clean the flanks with a wire brush.
Step 5/5: Thoroughly sand
Sand the surface with a grain of 40, then with 80s and finally with 120-sandpaper.
2. Create a mold
Place the synthetic resin in a prefabricated mould. The casting frame is made of 22 mm thick, smooth coated chipboard.
Tip: When sealing the mold, proceed very carefully, because the thin-liquid casting resin “finds” every leak.Epoxy resin table: produce mould
Step 1/4: Screw frame boards
Screw the frame boards together bluntly. The plates should not be warped, otherwise easily leaks will occur.
Step 2/4: Seal joints with silicone
Seal all joints of the casting frame with silicone. The quality of the silicone is not decisive.
Step 3/4: Spray with Teflonspray
Thoroughly dust the mould and spray generously with Teflonspray as a release agent. Ensure good ventilation.
Step 4/4: Align and clamp
Align the frame and the table corners exactly horizontally, using a wooden wedge if necessary. Secure the quartered tree discs with screw clamps in the corners so that they do not float later.
3. Mix epoxy resin
How much casting resin you need depends on the volume of the table top and the dimensions of your tree disc.
Tip: Plan a little more, because the wood “sucks” the synthetic resin.Epoxy resin table: Mix casting resin
Step 1/4: Mix resin and hardener
Mix the required amount of resin and hardener exactly as specified by the manufacturer.
Step 2/4: Stir
Mix the components very carefully for at least 2-3 min.
Step 3/4: Coloring
Divide the synthetic resin into two buckets. In a bucket, add the transparent deep blue color. Stir well here, too.
Step 4/4: Divide into four buckets
Now again spread the synthetic resin on two buckets, as well as the uncolored resin. Four vessels of synthetic resin should now be available.Next
4. Pour table top
Make sure that the room temperature does not drop below 20°C (even when curing). Pour out the resin slowly and avoid splashes and air bubbles.Epoxy resin table: pour table top
Step 1/4: Pour resin from four sides
Now pour the casting resin into the mould simultaneously from four different sides. Let us help you.
Step 2/4: Let the ground rest
Let the filled mass rest a little. This allows trapped air bubbles to rise.
Step 3/4: Eliminate air bubbles
Remove the remaining air bubbles by bursting them with a hot air hairdryer.
Step 4/4: Check level
Check the level after a few hours. When a lot of resin has flowed into the wood, carefully pour in.
5. Rework the table top
At the earliest after 72 hours, better after the final curing of a total of seven days, you can remove the table top from the mould and continue working.Epoxy resin table: reworked table top
Step 1/10: Remove Frame
Remove the border. The base top is separated from the table top with a hardwood wedge and wedge.
Step 2/10: Level
Often the level of synthetic resin is lower than that of the wooden discs. Then sanding or milling is the order of the day!
Step 3/10: Sanding the plate
Sanding plate from both sides (grain 40, 80, 120, 180, 240e). Be sure to use dust mask and suction!
Step 4/10: Trim edge
Trim the edge of the table top with a stop. Again, a styrofoam plate (EPS) inferior.
Step 5/10: Sanding edges
Sand the surrounding edge and then the edges with sandpaper and sanding block.
Step 6/10: Dust the surface
Thoroughly dust the table surface with a damp cloth. Dust is easily trapped under paint.
Step 7/10: Seal the surface
Seal with synthetic resin (SKresin 72) on top and sides and cure. Then seal the bottom.
Step 8/10: Sanding and dusting
Sand the surface again (grain 120, 180, 240), dust and seal all over again for a second time.
Step 9/10: Mount table legs
Pre-drill the holes for the screws before screwing. Hairpin legs are available online in different lengths.
Gerhardt Richter is a writer and a trainer at trade technical colleges, specializing in carpentry, plumbing, mechanics and construction.