In the bathroom, all the benefits when you install underfloor heating come into their own – a uniform room temperature and always warm feet. Walking barefoot in the bathroom is very pleasant thanks to the underfloor heating. In addition, the appearance of the bathroom is not disturbed by radiators.
The floor is often entered with bare feet, as the constant heat of the tiles is particularly pleasant. If the window area is not very large in the bathroom, you do not have to worry about drafts.
Install underfloor heating: Step by step
- With the covering of the heating screed with floor slabs one must have a little patience.
- The screed should be old for at least four, better still six weeks, before the tiling can be started. Meanwhile, the walls of the bathroom can be tiled.
- The heating must be switched off at least one day before.
- During the waiting period, the floor can be measured, the auxiliary lines can be drawn in and the working sections can be divided.
- The bathroom has to be water-blocking, especially on the floor. Added to this are the temperature fluctuations caused by the underfloor heating. The glue used here consists of two components, which are delivered in one container.
- You can also take a normal glue and mix in an emulsion that improves elasticity and water resistance.
- The two components should be thoroughly and lump-free to mix, preferably with a stirrer on a drill.
- The liquid component replaces the mixing water here. After a maturing time of approx. 5 to 10 minutes, the glue is thoroughly mixed again.
- The adhesive mortar is applied to the floor with a toothed trowel with 6 to 8 mm toothing and well combed through. Adhesive webs must be even and full on the whole surface. The flooring in the bathroom should have a water-barrier effect, so it is important to pay attention to a closed adhesive bed.
- It is always applied only as much glue as can be laid in the open time and corrected.
- Push the tiles pushing and pushing into the bed and tap lightly with the rubber mallet. During the laying work check again and again the dimensional accuracy of the surface and the tiles to each other.
- Straightening, tile corners and guide are hereby good tools.
- Even when using tile crosses must be remeasured, because the tiles are not always 100% accurate to size, and even small differences can add up.
- In the corners, the course of joints from wall to floor tile must be taken into account.
- During work, the remains of mortar on the surface are removed immediately.
- To obtain a uniform joint depth, the joints are scraped out during the laying work with a wooden spatula.
Substrates work with thermal fluctuations. Of course this applies especially to underfloor heating. Of course, the same high demands placed on the tile adhesive must also be met by the grout.
The joint filler used here is impermeable and flexible. After three days, grouting can be started. The tile adhesive must be thoroughly dry.
Before grouting, it is checked if the joints are completely scraped out. A uniform color of the joint is achieved only by uniform drying and uniform joint depth.
The mortar is mixed in a well-grindable consistency and poured out in sections on the tiles. Diagonally to the joint direction, the mortar is worked into the joints with the rubber slide. Dry grout is then spread on the joints, and after a few minutes, the soil is roughly cleaned with the rubber slide.
The dry grout can be reused for the next work period. During the fine cleaning with a damp sponge board, the remaining mortar is pressed into the joints. The surface is given the final touch by repolishing with a dry cloth.
Gerhardt Richter is a writer and a trainer at trade technical colleges, specializing in carpentry, plumbing, mechanics and construction.