Looking for an easy way to build a room divider cheaply? Our step-by-step illustrated guide and plans will show you how.
Whether larger rooms are to be shared or small rooms structured, with a half-height room divider, apartments can be structured wonderfully and on top of that the unsightly back of sofa bed or couch can be concealed. With plasterboard and metal profiles, such a room divider is produced quickly.
The costs also remain manageable. So you should plan the following expenses: A 260 x 60 cm large and 9.5 cm thick plasterboard costs about $12.50 to $12.90 in the DIY store. In addition, there are the 2 m long sheet metal profiles, which as a variant “U” cost a good $3 per piece, as a “C” variant just under $5.
What to consider?
In order for the construction of plasterboard and metal stand to hold together properly, certain dimensions must be adhered to. There is, for example, the distance between the metal stands. It must not be larger than 62.5 cm! When screwing the floor profiles, care must be taken to ensure that at least every 100 cm of screwing is setfor straight profiles. The plasterboards themselves are screwed with screws at a distance of 25 cm on the metal profiles. So you see, it’s not that hard to conjure up a plaster wall. And if you are skilled, you will also make a CD shelf from this material.
Easy way to build a room divider cheaply: sketch
The basic structure of the semi-high room divider consists of sheet metal profiles. Therefore, you should pay special attention to the small shelf at the front of the corner. The profiles must be fixed exactly as in working photo 5 of the manual. A “work” lamp can then be used as a light source.
Easy way to build a room divider cheaply: step-by-step
To carry out this design proposal for an easy way to build a room divider cheaply, you must process the described sheet metal profiles and plasterboard with a thickness of 9.5 or 12 mm. Instead of the sheet metal profiles, you can of course also use wooden slats according to the usual style. But with a bit of practice, it’s no harder to deal with the sheet metal profiles.
In order to achieve smooth cuts, the sheet metal scissors must be led perpendiculartothetled to the sheet metal. But be careful! The cutting edges are extremely sharp after cutting. In contrast to sheet metal profiles, plasterboard can be cut very easily: First, use the cutter knifeand a spirit level to break one side of the cover board or a rug, then bend this cutting line over a straight edge with courageous pressure, so that the plaster breaks. Then turn the plate and cut the deck box at the buckling line.Building room dividers
Step 1/15: Crop profiles
The profiles are tailored to measure with sheet metal scissors. If you place the room divider on laminate or a similarly sensitive floor covering, we strongly recommend placing a ceiling or a piece of carpet on the substrate when cutting, so that it is not damaged by the sharp-edged metal profiles.
Step 2/15: Glue the partition wall sealing tape
Another good protection on the profiles to be installed is the partition wall sealing tape. It is glued to the back of the profiles and thus reliably prevents scratches on the floor. This self-adhesive tape is usually used for wall connections. Here it prevents the sound from transferring over the newly erected walls to the adjacent rooms.
Step 3/15: Tighten profiles
Once the position of the room divider has been established, the profiles should be anchored to the ground with dowels.
Step 4/15: Connect floor profiles
In the next step, the ground profiles (UW profiles) are connected to the upright CW profiles by means of a crimper pliers.
Step 5/15: Connect parts
For the small corner shelf, the legs of the transverse UW profile are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, the supernated spacing is bent upwards and then connected to the crimper pliers.
Step 6/15: Insert crossbars
Small crossbars provide greater stability.
Step 7/15: Check the frame
Check the frame with the spirit level for an exact orientation. If it has become oblique during the construction phase, the ground anchorages are easily loosened and thin balancing wood is pushed under the profiles.
Step 8/15: Cutting plasterboard
In order to separate the plasterboard with precision, the cardboard layer is cut with a knife and then the plate on this cutting line is broken over an edge. Then the plate is turned and the cardboard layer of the back is cut.
Step 9/15: Slanting plate edges
Slightly slant the plate edges with a surform planer, then the impact edges can be better spat on later.
Step 10/15: Apply adhesive strips
If you have planned a wall connection to be spatovered, then stick a adhesive strip on the side of the profiles. After the taping, the visible adhesive strip is then separated with a knife.
Step 11/15: Screw on plasterboard
Screw the plasterboard with quick-build screws.
Step 12/15: Rounding edges
Now round the edges a little. The allows for the edge corner protection to fit more neatly.
Step 13/15: Apply edge protection
Now put the plaster on and place the edge protection in the plaster bed.
Step 14/15: Apply primer
Applying the primer.
Step 15/15: Wall decor textured finish (if desired)
Last step: the wall design decor…
Tip: It can also be done without crimper pliers
A set of crimper pliers that cut the profiles makes for an absolute ease of work in larger construction projects. But if you don’t have access to this special tool, you can do it yourself differently. Set up the metal profiles step by step and always connect them to the plasterboard. A detectable grip pliers provides great help.
Gerhardt Richter is a writer and a trainer at trade technical colleges, specializing in carpentry, plumbing and construction.