How can you build a shoe rack easily? Our step-by-step guide outlines a simple way to do it, without doors. Admittedly, it is somewhat unusual not to hide shoes behind cupboard doors or flaps. But if shoes decorate your feet, why should they suddenly look ugly in front of a wall?
The absence of doors or flaps saves material, costs and space compared to shoe cabinets. Another advantage of the open board to build a shoe rack is the optimal ventilation.
The shoes are held by rubber ropes, which hold them onto the board plate. Shoe tensioners (which you should use anyway if you want to do good for the leather) prevent the shoe tips from being compressed. Additional retaining strips below the heels are not even required for many shoe models.
Build a shoe rack: One cord holds all shoes
How many rows of shoes they can arrange on top and side depends on the space on the wall – and of course on the size of your shoes. Before building furniture, measurements are called for: no problem on the wall, with the shoes it gets a little more complicated because of different sizes and shapes. To determine the correct distances for strips and cords, see the drawing.
First consider the sizes of the shoes when you build a shoe rack. A wood remnant with corresponding rows of holes and plug-in retaining strip helps to find out the optimal distances for cord indent and exit for the rubber cord to the retaining strip.
Each wooden panel is suitable for the construction of the boards. If it is to be painted, MDF is a good place to be. Those who opt for a wood grain are well advised with multiplex (multilayer plywood) beech or birch. For the stiffening of the plate and as a spacer to the wall, 2 cm thick strips come to the back. Strips or aluminium angles at the front serve as slip brakes for the shoe heels. The 8 mm thick rubber ropes for holding the shoe tips are not available in every hardware store. Do not cut the cord too short, prefer to use a long piece for several pairs.
Record positions for the support strips and screw holes as well as the holes for the rubber rope and the wall mounting.
Using the drill rig to produce holes and constantly deep sinkholes for the rubber rope. Wood drill: 9 mm for the rubber band, 6 mm for wall mounting and 4 mm for screwing the support strips (3.5 mm Spax screws).
After sanding (60s grain) of the edges and surfaces apply three to four times clear varnish. Perform fine intermediate sanding with 220 grit.
On the back of the plate, 3.5 cm from the edge of the edge are screwed on to the top and side of the distance bars.
Fix the painted support strips with clamps and screw them through the plate from behind.
Tip! When cutting the rubber rope, a sheath with adhesive tape prevents the ends of the ropefroms from stretching.
The adhesive tape makes threading easier. Knot the ends on the back.
The holes for wall mounting are covered by the rubber rope.
An absurd idea? Footprints made of adhesive foil clearly indicate that a few shoes are on the way.
Foil instead of coloured varnish for the surface
After the adhesive film has been applied, the rope holes are exposed with a perforated iron (13 mm). Then lower slightly so that there are clean drilling edges and the rubber band is easier to thread. In the area of the aluminium angle profiles, a film strip about 15 mm wide is cut out by cutter and ruler. This substrate serves as a safe contact surface for adhesive. Since the aluminium profile is 20 mm wide, the cut-out is completely covered.